Submarine, hoagie, hero, grinder, po’boy, Italian, zeppelin, wedge. No matter what you call it, a long roll sliced lengthwise and stuffed with meat, cheese, and vegetables has become a staple of North American cuisine, with regional variants across the land. Why so many names, and where did they come from?
Numerous origin stories exist, with cities from Portland, Maine, to New Orleans, Louisiana, claiming to be the sandwiches’ progenitor. Here’s a breakdown of regional differences in these all-American favorites, including what to call them where.
Grinder: This term, preferred throughout most of New England, probably echoes an antiquated slang term once used for Italian American dock workers in the region, though another oft-posited theory suggests the sandwiches earned this name because of their massive size and toughness, forcing diners to grind their jaws to eat them. Outside New England, some refer specifically to toasted submarines as grinders.
Hero: This term was born in New York City in the 1930s, a reference to the heroic effort diners would have to make to finish one. While the original hero sandwiches were traditional hoagie-stye assemblages, over time the name came to encompass any sandwich served on a long roll, including hot meatball or eggplant parmesan.
Hoagie: This is the preferred name throughout the Jersey Shore and Pennsylvania, spanning from Philadelphia, where the term originated during World War I, across the state to Pittsburgh, where it probably took root in the 1950s. There is controversy over how the name came about. Some say it was an homage to Hog Island, a shipping plant outside Philadelphia that employed many Italian Americans. Workers there ate sandwiches made from Italian bread and slices of meat for lunch. The sandwiches came to be known as “Hog Island sandwiches,” or “hoggies,” for short. Another possibility is that the name was originally “hokie,” because sandwiches made from spare scraps of meat were a staple among Italian immigrants who were said to be “on the hoke,” meaning very poor.
Italian: Residents of Maine originally used the term to describe a long roll with ham, cheese, tomato, onion, olives, green peppers, pickles, and oil, though the term is now used for any submarine style sandwich, often with a qualifier, such as turkey Italian or veggie Italian, referring to the veggies and toppings rather than the style of cold cuts within. The sandwiches are believed to have gotten their name from their purported inventor, Italian restaurateur Giovanni Amato, who first sold them in Portland, Maine, in 1902. Amato named his creation for his mother country. Though Amato’s still exists as a popular franchise across northern New England, the name is no longer reserved for those coming from their inventor’s establishment. Competitors, and even home cooks, use the term freely.
Po’boy: This term is notable in that it comes from a southern locale—New Orleans—and isn’t attributed to Italians, but to that city’s large Creole population. The original Po’boy consisted of friend seafood, lettuce, tomatoes, picked, and mayonnaise, stuffed into a French baguette. Over time, the name came to refer to any sandwich served on a baguette, particularly those made from fried chicken, roast beef, or sausage. The name has since spread beyond the region.
Submarine or Sub: This is the most general term in use, accepted throughout most of the United States and preferred by large restaurant chains, like Subway, that span many regions. The name, which comes from the long sandwiches’ resemblance to a submarine, is credited to Italian immigrant and grocery store owner Dominic Conti, who began selling them in Paterson, New Jersey, during the 1920s.
Wedge: This name, prevalent in the lower Hudson River Valley, and counties north of New York City, refers to the local practice of cutting a wedge shape out of the top of the bread and filling that with toppings, instead of slicing into one side, although these days, you’ll find the bread is sliced straight through and filled with the sandwich meats of your choice. For New Yorkers, it’s all about the bread, so a wedge must be made only on locally made authentic crusty “Italian bread,” (similar to a baguette) which is either seeded or unseeded.
Zeppelin: This term, popular in some rural parts of Eastern Pennsylvania, comes from similar etymological roots as submarine, borrowing their name from the long airships of yore that share their shape.
Traditional Italian Hoagie
Ingredients:
1 Italian hoagie roll Lettuce, shredded 1/2 tomato, sliced 3 slices sharp Provolone cheese 3 slices Capicola 3 slices Genoa salami Onion, diced Pickled peppers, sweet, hot, or mixed, diced (optional) Olive oil Oregano, to taste Salt and pepper to taste
Directions:
Slice the hoagie roll lengthwise, cutting about 3/4 of the way through and leaving a hinge of unsliced bread at one edge. Open the roll and layer on shredded lettuce and tomato slices, followed by Provolone, Capicola, and salami. Cover the meat with diced peppers and onions. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with oregano, salt, and pepper to taste.
What do they call these sandwiches where you live? Tell us in the comments below.
Jaime McLeod is a longtime journalist who has written for a wide variety of newspapers, magazines, and websites, including MTV.com. She enjoys the outdoors, growing and eating organic food, and is interested in all aspects of natural wellness.
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